Get a break from the tourist crowds by visiting Calabria – Italy’s secret gem. This underexplored region in the very south of the country has an incredible amount to offer, with a beautiful coastline and serene beaches connecting strings of charming fishing villages. And with one of the highest historical immigration rates to America, you might just run into a distant cousin…
From indulging in its cultural delights to discovering its stunning landscapes, here’s what to do in Calabria.
You can fly right into Lamezia Terme, the regional airport at the toe of the Italian boot. From there, board one of the regional trains for just a few euros. This rail network is one of the most beautiful in the world, forming a scenic route that meanders along the stunning coastline. Linking together the historic towns and villages, the trains are a unique way to experience the breathtaking scenery of the region.
Keep in mind, the trains aren’t that frequent, so be sure to check the timetables. Once you’re on board, you’ll understand why – you may find yourself one of only a handful of people in the carriage.
The interior of the region is less served by public transport, but is highly accessible by car or even by foot, with winding roads leading up into the mountains and national parks. Hilltop villages look out from the high points, peppered with charming overnight stays and hiking trails that offer an authentic slice of this beautiful wilderness.
Don’t forget to sample Calabrian food and wine, including the wines of Ciró and spicy nduja sausage, as well as fresh produce like Tropea onions, Sila potatoes and Cosenza figs. You’ll also find an array of fresh seafood dishes served up all along the coast.
The local trains are not the fastest way to travel, but they are undeniably the most scenic. Forget intercity express trains – these tiny regional locomotives wind their way up to cliff-top towns and chug down to the seafront. Relaxed railway journeys of no more than an hour or so drop you on a secluded platform, seemingly in the middle of nowhere, before you round the corner into the next romantic village or coastal town, perched on the hillside, overlooking the sea.
Start in the old town of Lamezia, with a trip to the historic castle and ruins, or any one of the numerous charming churches thronging the back streets. The train takes you on to Pizzo in Vibo Valentia, a picturesque town that grew out of a fishing village, monastery and military fort. The unique cave church in Pizzo is well worth a visit and their regional culinary speciality Tartufo, a ball of ice cream filled with melted chocolate, is simply unmissable.
Still in Vibo Valentia, the next stop on the west coast railway is Tropea, 2021 winner of the “Most Beautiful Village in Italy” award. Legend has it, this quaint seaside town was founded by Hercules. Today, it’s a favourite resort location for Italian holidaymakers, with its beautiful sandy beaches and multiple bars and restaurants offering the famously sweet Tropea red onions and local seafood.
Capo Vaticano is next on the line, a stunning cape with extraordinary geological features, crystal clear blue waters, and white sandy beaches dotted along the coastline. The gateway to Sicily lies beyond in the town of Scilla, with a ferry port to the island just outside the charming settlement that climbs up the side of the hill from the sea. The historical lighthouse in Scilla helps sailors navigate the dangerous Messina strait, while the town’s beachfront side offers the marina and sandy shores, together with excellent accommodation and dining options.
Right at the end of the western coastline, at the very tip of the boot, lies ancient Reggio Calabria, the largest city in the region. Is Reggio Calabria worth visiting? Well, it’s not one of the most famous Italian cities, but it’s home to the world-class Museo Archeologico Nazionale di Reggio Calabria, fields of bergamot, botanical gardens looking out over the sea, and several archeological sites of historical significance and the city is well worth a look.
Where to stay
No matter your budget, you’ll find a range of places to stay. From modern opulence to boutique charm and antique luxury hotels, Calabria is rightly known for its hospitality and welcoming attitude to visitors and the Calabrians are no exception to the rule.
Colourful, modern, and elegant, the Piccolo Grand offers luxury rooms with cosy wooden floors and balconies overlooking the sea or the town. Breakfast on the ocean-view terrace or lounge on their private beach.
This 16th-century convent has been beautifully converted into a luxury hotel, with a sun terrace and panoramic pool that looks out onto the Tyrrhenian Sea, set in picturesque and well-maintained gardens.
A stunning resort with a private beach, Thalasso spa, lagoon pool, sailing, windsurfing, and numerous other watersports on offer. Enjoy a room overlooking the Capo Vaticano lighthouse, Stromboli volcano or Aeolian islands.
Just a few steps from the water, Principe di Scilla features panoramic views over the ocean or the romantic Castello Ruffo di Calabria. The hotel’s speciality fish restaurant sits on a wooden terrace directly overlooking the sea.
Ionian adventures
After winding your way down the west coast of Calabria, make your way up the other side of the region, taking in the Ionian sights along the way. The trains get even smaller and more rickety, but also with even fewer people and stunning views. Stop off in Melito di Porto Salvo in the south, before heading on to the white sands and blue waters of Brancaleone-Marina.
Next on the eastern coastline is Crotone, a maze of charming narrow alleyways climbing up the hill and facing out across the Ionian Sea. You might be the only tourist in town, but don’t worry; the locals in the beachside bars and restaurants will show you their traditional Italian hospitality.
The Costa degli Aranci is home to a collection of stunning white beaches, with the charming seaside town of Soverato nestled in between the smaller fishing villages of Montepaone, Davoli, and Isca Marina.
Further north up the east coast, you come to the Bay of Taranto. Looking out over vineyards, olive groves, untouched beaches and deep blue sea, the train takes you to Corigliano Calabro at the edge of the region. An ancient ducal castle sits on the hilltop, with the town spilling out and down the conical hill and down to the coast.
And if you want to travel further by train, cross over the bay of Taranto into Taranto city in Apulia. The new part of the city has a stunning collection of Greek art, but travel across the swing bridge over the inland lagoon, into the old quarter, for an experience akin to stepping back in time. These shaded dark streets and antique alleyways seem perfectly preserved, untouched over more than two hundred years of history.
What to do in Calabria’s rich interior
The coasts are incredible, but venture away into the interior of the region and even more beauty awaits. One popular excursion among Italians is the Kalabria Coast-to-Coast Trail – a walking track that takes you from the white beaches of eastern Ionia to Costa degli Dei in Pizzo, on the west coast. This stunning hiking path takes you up into the mountains, through ancient chestnut woods and through olive groves and vineyards that have been cultivated for centuries.
Hospitable tiny villages lie along the 55-kilometre track, offering charming rural accommodation to the hikers who pass through. The route can also be cycled and there are numerous offshoots to further explore the national parks in the region. Sila National Park is home to an array of peaceful and breathtaking lakes, and the oldest beech trees in Europe lie in the Vetusta beech forest – a UNESCO World Heritage Site in the park of Pollino. Rafting and canoeing can also be enjoyed in Pollino, with its gorges and mountain rivers.
Approaching Vibo Valentia in the western part of the region, you can trek to the Lacina Dam, with its crystal-clear spring waters and natural lake habitat, now a wildlife sanctuary. Alternatively, take the famous Frassati Path, with wooden walkways and bridges crossing streams and rivers in the green forests, leading to the mystical ruins of the Castle of Baroness Scoppa.
Italy’s unsung hero awaits
This Calabria travel guide showcases the incredible history, culture, cuisine and natural beauty on offer in this undiscovered gem. Historical buildings and ancient ruins await you at every turn, the coastline and beaches are among the best in the world, and the national parks offer vibrant forests and stunning hiking trails. The landscape is the perfect backdrop to the warm, hospitable nature of the Calabrian people, while the luxury hotels and charming restaurants offer comfort in paradise, allowing you to experience the best the region has to offer.